Paddling along the north eastern shores of Lake Malawi (or Lake Niassa as it is known in Mozambique), I marvel at the stunning scenery all around and below me - crystal clear water teeming with brightly coloured fish darting amongst the boulders, and pristine white sandy beaches backed by pristine forest. The only sounds I can hear are the gentle waters lapping against the shore and the various birds that the lake attracts, of which there are plenty. Out on the lake the silhouette of a fisherman in his wooden canoe passes by as he paddles home with his day's catch.

The area that I am visiting is the Manda Wilderness reserve located in northern Mozambique in the Niassa Province (getting here is easier by boat from Likoma island in Malawi rather than braving the terrible roads in Mozambique!).  A 600 square km reserve, Manda Wilderness has been created in alliance with the local communities to protect the wildlife in this wilderness area. The scenery varies enormously as you move inland from the lakeshore through acacia woodland, grassy plains bordered by streams and rivers and past deep rocky gorges. Wildlife species that can be seen in the reserve include sable, elephant, reedbuck, leopard and over 300 species of birds. Nkwichi Lodge is the only lodge located in the reserve and has a capacity for just 14 guests, therefore offering personalised attention and a minimum impact on the environment. Nkwichi prides itself on practicing responsible eco-tourism. By staying at the lodge guests are contributing to nature and the development of the surrounding community.

A few days ago I arrived at Nkwichi Lodge by speedboat from Likoma island …..and when I got here, the scenery literally ‘took my breath away’. So different from the lake on the Malawian side, this area has not been over-fished, nor is there a massive local population living in the area like most of the lakeshore in Malawi. If you are lucky, it is also still possible to see crocodile in the lake here, although they are very shy because they have been hunted for centuries by the local people. So swimming in the lake during the day is still safe.

My days here are spent relaxing on the white sandy beaches, visiting the Agricultural Project funded by the lodge (this project encourages sustainable farming practices on the area), hiking in the pristine forests with the friendly lodge staff as our guides, and canoeing on & snorkelling in the lake. The only depressing aspect of my stay is that it is just not long enough!....and I do not get the chance to experience one of the dhow multi-day mobile camping safari trips which take guests to completely remote parts of the reserve.  I will just have to return!

I ask myself why there are so few people visiting this beautiful paradise? Perhaps it is because it is so remote and most travellers prefer a less ‘off the beaten track’ destination? Or, more likely, it is because very few people know it exists?  Whatever the reason, it is because so few visitors come to this area that makes visiting so appealing. For Intrepid travellers, I highly recommend a making the effort to visit the Manda Wilderness reserve and Nkwichi Lodge.

Contact us for more information and rates on Nkwichi Lodge and the Manda Wilderness area.