On our day of arrival we set out from the main lodge at Pafuri for our first few hours of walking with our fantastic guides, Fraser and Jeffrey, both of whom have many years of guiding experience in the African Bush. No more than a few minutes after we left the lodge we came across a huge heard of impala ….the first of the many sightings we would witness during out 4 days on the trail.  Animals are far wearier of humans on foot than when we are in a vehicle, so the impala, startled by our presence, dashed off into the distance before we got too close. We were advised to keep extra quiet at all times so as to scare off as little as possible….so quietly we carried on walking stopping along the way to identify tracks and to listen to the guides share facts about animal dung, medicinal uses for trees and other interesting ‘bush’ anecdotes.

Our first night at camp was spent relaxing and chatting around the camp fire while enjoying the delicious food that Sandra, the camp ‘manager’ had prepared for us. The camp consists of four 2-man dome tents (with camp beds) positioned around a camp fire, with bush toilets and basins adjoining the tents, and bucket showers located at the edge of the camp.  So all the necessities of a truly authentic bush camp are provided…..what more does one need! And after all the walking we were ready for a good night’s sleep.

Nothing prepared us for the excitement and beauty that lay ahead as we started out on our walk on the second day. Fraser’s plan was to take us walking through the 60 year old fever tree forest and when we got there, it was magnificent. Running through the forest were herds of Nyala, impala, kudu, warthog and a few other small antelope. We sat quietly in the forest listening for other sounds, and sure enough, we heard elephant in the distance making their way towards us. As they reached us, we stood quietly watching these magnificent beasts eating in the forest on their way towards the river to drink.  What a humbling experience to be so close to these animals on their level!

On returning to camp in the afternoon, we had a quick dip in the luvuvhu river to cool down (trying to avoid the crocodiles as much as possible) and then headed off for a sunset game drive. No sooner had we got into the vehicle, a call came over the radio to tell us about a leopard sighting not far away. We reached the spot to find not only one huge male leopard, but also a female close by….they had been sharing a impala kill they had made earlier than day. I cannot describe the feeling of being so close to these beautiful creatures….no matter how many times I see a leopard, the thrill is always the same! Another successful day of game viewing and we were looking forward to what lay ahead the next day.

Another early start and Fraser and Jeffrey stopped often while we were walking through the bush to share their endless bush knowledge. We learnt all about termites and how their colonies are structured; how rhino’s mark their territories with middens (piles of dung); why the honeyguide bird follows man; how to figure out which way an animal is walking from their tracks; and so many other fascinating things. Fraser and Jeffrey spotted klipspringer climbing along the rocky cliffs, and even managed to spot a leopard in broad daylight, which is something I have never seen before while walking! Still no lion though, but we saw plenty of lion tracks.  Fraser decided to follow two sets of lioness tracks with us following closely behind - we tracked the lioness with caution all the way up the hill in the hope of us getting a sighting. We got as near to them as being able to hear their growls at us from above, and, feeling a bit too close for comfort, Fraser decided to call it a day before they too close! My adrenalin was pumping by now so I was rather relieved when we turned around…..you can’t always predict the behavior of a lion!

After we got out of that potentially hairy situation we stopped for a hearty lunch in the bush, and then a rest back at camp before heading out for our final sunset drive. Bumping along the way up the mountains we arrived at Lanner gorge after about an hour’s drive, and were greeted with one of the most spectacular views I have ever seen! My description will not do it justice so I have inserted a picture below to give you a better idea. This was only the first of our two surprises this evening. The second one was even more special – we were taken to a small waterhole where the double-banded sandgrouse come to drink every evening. Quietly we sat with our drinks while a huge flock of these birds flew down to the water to drink while singing their melodic calls. Time stood still and was a moment that I will never forget!

The friendly and knowledgeable guides & staff, plus the incredible amount of wildlife and birdlife that we saw, the scenery and the food, and finally the company of the rest of the group made The Pafuri Walking trail one of the most memorable experiences I have ever had………and I would recommend it to anyone!

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